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2025 Essex
Written by Lindsay Korst
gngoat@gngoat.org
The landmark Izaak Walton Inn gets re-branded.
Tuesday, August 12th
This Article
by Justin Franz inspired Baolu and I to plan our 32nd anniversary trip
around little Essex, Montana.
Long a famous railfan hangout and
Great Northern Railway icon, we wanted to
see for ourselves how the redo compared to "the old days".
First impression? Blue. Everything's
Blue.
If you google "Izaak Walton Inn", the new owner's "Loge
Glacier" brand, pops up. Loge is supposedly pronounced "Lodge", but being
the old codger I am, it
makes me think of a Loge Seat at the theater. Low-dge. So that's how I'll
deal with the re-make. ;p
Let's compare, side by side, with a picture of the IWI from
2021. I must say, the white replacing the mustard yellow is a definite
improvement.
Low-dge Blue. I spent far too much time, trying to identify the shade they used
(for example on this, the former X-215 caboose seen above). Looking over the
swatches on
this "color meanings" website, I decided on "Bleu de France Blue".
Your monitor display and opinion may vary. Viva la France!
We decided to splurge and stay in a caboose this time (so you guys, will have to
check out the IWI room situation, yourselves, so sorry...). They tell me it's nice.
And WHAT a caboose! Former BN 12041 built by Pacific Car & Foundry, September
1975.
Lovingly restored inside and
out as Great Northern X-97 in caboose red, GN X-97 and
the famous GN 441 EMD F45 locomotive lodge
are privately owned and thus were spared the Low-dge Blue. BTW, Baolu simply
adored that lamp made of railroad spikes. We asked at the front desk if we
could buy it, but it wasn't theirs to sell.
The owners, Tom and Jamie Lambrecht, have a wonderful website, (discovered by
Baolu; Baolu found it), about their two pieces of rolling stock
with MUCH better pictures than I
could ever take. Do check it out!
Wednesday, August 13th
Here's the lobby interior. Nice fireplace and woodsy accents. Remember climbing
all those stairs? ;p That's the complementary
coffee on the left and the attendant's laptop with a simple, but effective
information board behind her. All check-ins are done online either by email or
text. No keys. They text you a code for the door keypad. It MIGHT work...
A few words about eating at the Low-dge...
Baolu samples the breakfast sandwich, whilst I partake of the breakfast
burrito (vertical style). Both were quite good.
When we made our reservations last year, there was little mention about chewings
on their website.
"Oh, the nearest grocery store is 30 minutes away, you can "grab & go"
something-something for breakfast and dinner starts at 5pm", is approximately
what it said. Right up until a week before we left, we planned to hit the Super
1 in Kalispell and load up our own cooler with breakfast & lunch munchies.
Instead, our confirmation email explained the restaurant was open 7am to 9pm and
three squares could be obtained. Ah, much better. No need to panic. Cancel
emergency food rations.
AFTER we got home, they finally put their menu online (but it's hard to find).
I include the breakfast and lunch/dinner menus here for easier viewing. And,
yes, the Bar downstairs is still serving drinks. Our bartender made a couple
excellent Manhattans for us, Tuesday night, which we enjoyed on the porch until
carried away by the whiskey man).
Enough of the preliminaries. Let's go railfanning!
In an amazing bit of luck, the
Empire Builder is just
20 minutes late into Essex (after turning the train at Spokane and BUSSING the
passengers in from Seattle and Portland). The Engineer of #8 gave a waving
Baolu, (white sweater), an enthusiastic highball.
Power for today's #8 are two
GE P42 locomotives 204 and 152. The lead unit features the Phase VII livery
which looks soooo much better than the drab Phase V seen on the trailing unit.
Zooming up US 2 in pursuit, I glanced over and saw an "image thru the trees",
Shed 8, with just enough space to capture the lead unit popping out of the
snowshed. No such luck. Despite running to get in position, it just didn't work
out. You win some, you lose some.
An old, favorite shot of mine is this kick ooch above US 2, where the railroad
looks like you could reach out, and touch it.
The Summit of Marias Pass. Scene of many a GN Ry. publicity photo. Baolu gets
another crisp, "Highball," AND an open-window-wave from the Engineer. Baolu
attracts trains like flies to butter and elicits horn serenades. I should bring
her along more often! ;p
A small pond makes a serene foreground as Amtrak #8 coasts downhill towards
Glacier Park.
This is the classic shot (from 2021) of #8 crossing Two Medicine Bridge as it
leaves Glacier Park station.
BUT, I decided to go a little further east this time to capture the Rockies in
the background as the Empire Builder heads out onto the Great Plains.
I was just heading back to the truck when Baolu shouted out, "TRAIN!!". It was
indeed a grain train, right on the yellow signals of the Builder.
Baolu proclaimed this, "Her Train" (she saw it, I didn't) and was taking
pictures from a different angle.
Right. Let's visit
Glacier Park Lodge.
Big Trees, Big Baskets and a testimonial to two giants:
James J. Hill (the Empire Builder) and his son,
Louis W. Hill (the Godfather of Glacier) for their vision in opening up the
Pacific Northwest. And Baolu had a serious case of Basket Envy!
In this view from 2021, we see the colorful bridge into the GPL and Glacier Park
station. When we visited in 2025, access was limited as they were rebuilding the
platform to be ADA-compliant.
Spotted as we entered the depot. Did anyone proof-read this? Especially, since
the correct spelling is just above, in the graphic.
Here's what you see as you walk up to the GPL from the train station. What
a magnificent location Louis Hill chose.
The Blackfoot Indians were quite keen on soccer, bringing the game with them,
across the land bridge from Asia. Here we see a pair of nets in front of a
traditional tepee.
Baolu takes time to inspect the flowers. Behind her, is an extension (annex) of
the GPL, built after the main building was finished in 1913.
The final stretch walking up to the main entrance.
This is a former GN Ry. dormitory, moved from Blackfoot, MT, to be used as such,
by workers at GPL. Okay, time to head back to our caboose for naptime.
Dinner tonight would be in Whitefish.
During my trip out here in 2021,
I discovered this marvelous, southern-cuisine restaurant called
Tupelo Grille right in downtown. I
wanted Baolu to sample it.
But, on the way there, I HAD to first stop at the Belton (West Glacier) depot for a
few snapshots, as I had never gotten a decent picture of that structure.
It was here, I had another "encounter". I was trudging up to
the platform (ALSO being ADA-rebuilt) when this woman (not Baolu) came up behind
me and brushed past without a word. Startled, I jumped about a foot in the air,
and croaked something unintelligible like,
"PLUUUGH!!!"
Once she reached the door, she stopped, blocking my path. She stood there for a
moment or two, unsure what to do. Then she reversed course and came charging
towards me. I stood out of the way. I don't think she spoke-a-da English.
If you look closely, you can see a couple of potheads energetically partaking by
the picnic table. Inadvertently experiencing a "contact high", I got my pictures
and got out of there -- using a different route. Next thing you know, there are
two 30-somethings, pedaling furiously towards me on bicycles, forcing me off the
sidewalk.
I find these people.
Anyway. Let's talk about something more pleasant, like the Tupelo Grill. We were
there on the dot at 5pm for our reservation and were promptly seated in
the front by a window. So far so good. Two things about eating, out here in
summer, however:
The air conditioning will be set at just below freezing, and your table will be
assigned a squadron of horse flies to harass you during the meal. Baolu wisely
brings along a heavy sweater at times like these (it was 94 degrees outside).
Both of us had non-alcoholic drinks which definitely threw the staff off. Yes, I
know. It's tourist season and everything's slower. The appetizers finally appeared. The gumbo was outstanding
and the sausage plate was enormous.
I had the rack of lamb and B had the catfish, both delicious, but they really overdid
it on the collard greens...way too much of that. Filled half of both plates, it
did. Dinner was gutty. It was
roll-me-out-the-door, gutty.
It was also kind of spendy, but it WAS for our
Anniversary. ;p All-in-all, two thumbs up.
Back at the Low-dge, a few more shots before bedtime. This is the "new"
clientele they are recruiting.
That woman on the far right never stopped talking, even with the manifest
rolling by. More about that later.
Ah, the X-97 caboose is a welcome and restful respite. Time to hit the hay.
Thursday August 14th
On our final morning at Low-dge Glacier, we decided to "walk the cabooses". But
first, why not have a reasonably-healthy breakfast, (picked up on the way home
last night @ Super 1)?
SO! Presented for your amusement, in numerical order, are before/after images.
Remember to keep the images straight, Post-2025 is their "blue period".
Caboose 1
Hard up against US 2, and about a half mile walk to Low-dge Glacier, is the
former GN X-314 "Safety Today Every Day". She is rapidly being swallowed up by
the Montana shrubbery. Ni!
Caboose 2
Back behind our caboose, is an
ex-Northern Pacific bay-window job, suitable for
habitation.
Caboose 3
Keeping Caboose 2 company is GN X-215 "Safety Today Every Day"
Caboose 4
Where we stayed. Proudly wearing GN caboose red, "Your Safety Is Up to You"
slogan, and
markers that light up at night.
Nothing helps a selfie, like a background that
POPS!
The four cabeese overlooking the tracks don't match up with the Low-dge property
map.
Caboose 5 (sign outside says Caboose 6).
Caboose 6 (sign outside says, Caboose 7).
Caboose 7 (sign outside says, Caboose 8).
Caboose 8 (sign outside says, Caboose 9).
That makes 8 cabooses available for rent at the Low-dge.
Nearby are two more
cabooses, privately owned:
Close to the Essex Amtrak stop on Parma Road, is the
privately-owned GN X-66 caboose. Their website no longer works.
This is a caboose I had not seen before. It is 2-3 miles
west of Essex between MP 173 and 174 on US 2. It is off its trucks, slogan
is "Safety First" and numbered 14305.
This is the Glacier
Haven RV and Campground, and their website functions.
The Great Northern
Rafting caboose, west of Belton, and visible from US 2. This is an
actual GN caboose X-220 in an earlier life.
Okay, back to Essex for some odds and ends:
This work train with BNSF power (9024/7592) did not move
during our visit and was easy to see and hear idling from the porch. On
occasion, the locomotives would automatically shut down, then start up again
later. This drove
Baolu bonkers, as it interfered with her ability to detect approaching trains.
Essex now has a railcam. I knew of it, but it didn't go
live to the public until yesterday (8-18-2025).
"Did you ever have the feeling you was being WATCHED?"
My website software is so old (how old IS it?) that I
can't seem to embed a link here. You know the drill. Open You Tube
and search "Essex railcam".
Signs: Milepost marker from Saint Paul; Caboose notice; two
old IWI signs stashed out by the cabins above Essex.
To sum up...
I realize Loge Glacier is part of a chain....of "the hotel
that gets you outdoors", but they lay it on awful heavy. Railfans trackside with
cameras is OUT. Loud-mouthed hikers and bikers in the parking lot and common
areas are IN. There is no mention of the Amtrak stop on their website nor the
recently-installed railcam.
Their wi-fi password is "liveoutsidegoexplore", as if they
want you around as little as possible. As one reviewer said, "loud,
excitable music" is blasted at you in the restaurant, the downstairs bar and
even outside on the porch. No mention is made of the history of the place,
the Great Northern Railway or even what that funny little goat emblem is --
still to be seen here and there at the Low-dge.
Their website could definitely use a little tweeking.
It's a bit stand-offish and hard to navigate. At least, that's the vibe I
got.
Occupancy is definitely down from previous visits. Baolu says
they were offering 20% off on rooms...at the height of the season. For the
first time, parking was easy to find.
Farewell, Essex. So much Blue...
THE END
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